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Die MBSLK.de-Foren » » Tipps und Technik R170

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Tipps und Technik R170 » » Thema: Kompressor random failure
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User seit 25.12.2015
 Geschrieben am 26.12.2015 um 11:45 Uhr   
Hi,
The reason I put in a 4 bar regulator is what I was reading on an American forum.
They tell it is more of a safety issue to prevent the engine from running on a poor fuel/air mixture ... when using a bigger cranckshaftpulley?
I'll put in the original regulator and see if there is a difference ...
Thank you for your answer!

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User seit 25.12.2015
 Geschrieben am 26.12.2015 um 11:49 Uhr   
Hi Convertible,
Can you please give me a more specific description on the diode and where/how to use it for the max 4,8v ...
Thanks!

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 Geschrieben am 26.12.2015 um 12:09 Uhr   
Hi Koen,

4 bar fuel pressure is massive! I hope that all the sealing`s and the hoses will survive the pressure.. I never heart about that, when using a bigger cranckshaft pulley, that you need a higher pressure. For what reason? Better you put in the original regulator. By the way, for what reason do you need a fast car in the U.K.? Dont you have very poor speed limits? `

Regards Christoph

--
Mercedes Slk 200 K mit üblichem Schnickschnack, BMW 316ti Compact ohne Gimmicks

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User seit 25.12.2015
 Geschrieben am 26.12.2015 um 12:31 Uhr   
Ok, I have refitted the original regulator ...
I've made an aluminium ring and clamped it into the compressor clutch.
Compressor is working constantly now. This is more for a test than it is a permanent solution.
Problem now is that the boost-valve still remains open ...
Is there a way to reset it?
Disconnected the battery but it remains open.
When turning the key I hear a wheening noise coming from the valve but it doesn't move ...
Why I need a fast car? It gives me a fine feeling to know that it is fast ...

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   convertible

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 Geschrieben am 26.12.2015 um 13:19 Uhr   
[ Beitrag wurde zuletzt editiert von convertible am 26.12.2015 um 13:54 Uhr ]

Hi Coen,

the by pass regulation valve remains open due to engine safety reasons.
ECU is sending the signal to keep the valve open, this is also caused by a higher voltage output above 5 volt.

The diode Clamping diagram will come shortly

To reset the bypass valve, keep ignition light on (no engine start) for 2 Min.

Check the error code memory for P 0103 (input voltage too high, above 4,95 Volt)
and clear memory.

The sensitivity of the orig. BOSCH MAF is slightly higher than the Pierburg, pobably you should try the Pierburg MAF ... 09.0.

--
Beste Grüße
............................................................
SLC 230 PreFL
///AGM-BigBlock M113ego NonEco

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   convertible

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 Geschrieben am 26.12.2015 um 14:33 Uhr   
Hi Coen,

the MAF Pin Out for the pre face lift is

1 intake air temp signal
2 circuit 87
3 ground
4 +5v
5 air mass signal


The Diode has to be clamped between Pin 3 and 4.
Make shure the diode is clamped the right direction.



   

--
Beste Grüße
............................................................
SLC 230 PreFL
///AGM-BigBlock M113ego NonEco

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User seit 25.12.2013
 Geschrieben am 26.12.2015 um 15:25 Uhr   


Koen schrieb:
Why I need a fast car? It gives me a fine feeling to know that it is fast ...




There is no need to drive a Car fast.
But it`s good to know that you can if you want...

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   kauba1
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 Geschrieben am 26.12.2015 um 16:40 Uhr   
Hello mentioned the Pierburg 09.0: http://tinyurl.com/ok2z7tt Regards! Dieter.

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User seit 25.12.2015
 Geschrieben am 26.12.2015 um 18:46 Uhr   
Hi,
I refitted the original fuel pressure regulator and did the two minute reset with the ignition key turned on.
I cannot erase or reset any further codes because I don't have a OBD device ...
Took the car for a short spin and the overboost valve seemed to work fine at first.
However when I did go for higher rpm the power got killed instantly by the valve.
When retrying it takes 2 or 3 seconds (sometimes even longer) before I get any respons from the engine.
Then it takes of full power to get killed instantly again by the valve ...
No real safety mode this time ...
I think, this confirms the theory on the LMM signaling over 5v?
Please correct me if I'm wrong!
Can you please give me some more detail on the exact diode type (number) and the correct direction it has to be fitted in the wiring ...
Is the drawing of the pins seen into the LMM or is it seen into the connector on the wire?
Sorry to be asking this many questions but I am not that familiar with this car yet ...
Thank you so much guys!

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 Geschrieben am 26.12.2015 um 19:13 Uhr   
Hi Koen,

You do not need an OBD Device. In case you have one it would not help you in this issue. First, I would check the cable connection to the recirculation flap and the plug on the recirculation damper. I believe that only MB can be re- teach the recirculation damper, to my knockledge its only possible with Star Diagnosis own by MB , not with an OBD device or Carsoft or any other procedure.

Regards Christoph

--
Mercedes Slk 200 K mit üblichem Schnickschnack, BMW 316ti Compact ohne Gimmicks

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